The drive from Merzouga to Marrakech is long and we needed a quiet place to recharge along the way. Skoura, an oasis town on the outskirts of the Sahara, provided the perfect setting. Our destination for the night? Ksar El Kabbaba, a place that looks imposing from the outside yet feels like a hidden retreat within.

What we expected to be just an overnight stay turned out to be one of the most unique hotels I’ve ever experienced.

Skoura: a historical crossroads of caravans and kasbahs

Skoura is often overlooked in favor of Ouarzazate or the Todra Gorge, but its history makes it more than just a place to sleep. Established in the 12th century under the Almohad dynasty, it became an essential stop for trading caravans traveling between the Sahara Desert and Morocco’s imperial cities.

Merchants carrying gold, salt, and spices would pause here to rest, trade, and prepare for the next leg of their journey. The region is best known for its kasbahs, fortified homes that protected families from both desert raiders and the elements. Many still stand today, some converted into hotels or museums, others abandoned but still striking against the desert landscape.

The Palmeraie de Skoura, a vast grove of palm trees and lush farmland, remains a defining feature of the town, creating a stark contrast between greenery and arid desert.

First impressions: a fortress in the oasis

Ksar El Kabbaba embodies the traditional Moroccan ksar, a fortified structure designed for both defense and elegance. The thick adobe walls immediately give off a sense of strength and history, but once inside, the contrast is striking.

The interior courtyard is an oasis within an oasis, with towering palms, vibrant gardens, and a massive pool. The entire property is built in traditional adobe style, using a mixture of straw, earth, and water to form bricks. This natural insulation helps regulate temperature, keeping rooms cool even under the Saharan sun.

At the time of our visit, only a few guests were present—a family from Toronto and a group of older travelers enjoying a boisterous holiday. The low occupancy added to the serenity, making it an ideal place to unwind.

Our room at Ksar El Kabbaba

We stayed in a standard room, but it still reflected traditional Moroccan design. The thick, striped curtains, velvet couches, woven carpets, and intricately painted Alfarje-style wooden ceiling made it feel warm and inviting. The bed was comfortable, and the room was spacious enough to move around easily.

The bathroom, however, had its quirks. While the tiled bathtub was beautifully designed, the showerhead was faulty, spraying water unpredictably, which meant huddling in a corner to avoid drenching the floor.

Our room overlooked the gardens, a peaceful sight to wake up to.

My first taste of pigeon

Dinner was a deep dive into Moroccan cuisine, starting with pumpkin soup instead of the expected Harira—a pleasant surprise.

The highlight? Stuffed pigeon.

In Moroccan cuisine, pigeon—known locally as b'stilla (pastilla)—is a dish traditionally served at celebrations. The bird is slow-cooked with saffron, cinnamon, and preserved lemons, then wrapped in thin warqa pastry (similar to phyllo dough), and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon to create a savory-sweet contrast.

The version we had at Ksar El Kabbaba was stuffed rather than wrapped in pastry, allowing the rich, gamey flavor of the meat to stand out. Accompaniments included vegetables, rice, and dessert, leaving us pleasantly full.

Earlier in the day, we had fresh orange juice and mint tea by the pool, enjoying the sunny weather and tranquil surroundings.

Exploring the property

Since I was recovering from a cold, we opted for low-key activities, mainly relaxing by the pool and strolling through the gardens.

We checked out the spa, hammam, and gym, but we didn’t use them this time. The property is beautifully maintained, with palm-lined walkways, intricate Moroccan tiling, and quiet nooks perfect for reading or unwinding.

Although we didn’t venture much beyond the hotel, Skoura is well-positioned for those wanting to explore.

Just 40 km (25 miles) away is Ouarzazate, often called the "Gateway to the Sahara." It’s home to Atlas Studios, where iconic films like Gladiator, Lawrence of Arabia, and Game of Thrones were filmed.

For history lovers, Kasbah Amridil is one of the best-preserved kasbahs in Morocco. Built in the 17th century, it offers a window into traditional Moroccan life, with original tools, artifacts, and architectural details still intact.

Further out, adventurers can explore:

The Dades Valley, known for its winding roads and dramatic rock formations
Todra Gorge, a canyon with towering walls, popular for rock climbing and hiking

Even if you only pass through Skoura, it might be worth staying an extra night to experience some of its hidden treasures, but we felt that one was plenty.

Final thoughts: just a stopover?

I would stay here again, but next time, I’d upgrade to a suite—for only $50 more per night, the extra space and amenities would be well worth it. Ksar El Kabbaba exceeded expectations. It may not be a destination hotel, but as a stopover between Merzouga and Marrakech, it offers serenity, history, and great food.

Most visitors see Skoura as a pit stop, but in reality, it’s a historically rich and visually stunning region. Would you stay in a ksar-style hotel? Let me know in the comments below!

Ksar El Kabbaba, Skoura: a review at the edge of the Sahara